Eureka Springs
A Brief History!

By: Joe Gunnels

Robert Ripley of "Ripley's Believe It or Not" called Eureka Springs one of the 10 most unusual cities in America. We're not sure whether to be proud of that or not but, the fact is, we are proud of the recognition and thankful for the listing in his books. Eureka Springs is indeed an unusual place and in the next few moments I would like to tell you a little bit of our history and mention some of the things Mr. Ripley thought were so unusual about what we now call "America's Victorian Village."

Eureka Springs began as a place of healing! Although the first settlers began settling here around 1829, several tribes of Indians in the Ozarks area knew about "the healing springs" long before the first white settlers came to the area. It is also believed that Hernando DeSoto and his expedition came to this area around 1541. Nevertheless, in 1829 settlers began to camp around the springs, bathing in and drinking the waters. The cold mountain spring waters were both healing and refreshing. Many of the early settlers were also hunters and trappers. Wildlife was plenteous with white tail deer, black bear, fox, mink, beaver, rabbits and squirrels and many other animals. Fishing was great as well. With the King's River to the east and the White River to the west, there was no shortage of fish to catch and beautiful scenery to enjoy. We are very blessed to still have those great waters as well as two beautiful lakes to go with them, Beaver Lake and Dam to the west and Table Rock lake and Dam to the north. These bodies of water have played a significant role in the development and popularity of this entire area of the Ozarks. So, not only did the springs attract early settlers, so did the waters of the rivers.

By 1879 there were nearly 400 people living around "the springs." While the local folks were gathered together on July 4th in 1879, they decided to take steps to become an official city of the state of Arkansas. Therefore, we claim July 4th, 1879 as our birthday. The name of the town has been credited to Burton Saunders, or "Buck" as he was nicknamed, the 16 year old son of one of the early settlers, Judge J. B. Saunders. Buck suggested the name Eureka, because of its meaning, "I found it!" Springs are what they had found and why the people were here, so the name certainly seemed appropriate, and it stuck. The name simply means "I found springs" and indeed they did. There are 63 springs inside the city limits today, and over 1200 springs within a 7 mile radius of the center of town. Eureka Springs was on the map and on the grow!

Starting in 1879 with 400 people, the town quickly grew to 4,000 by 1880. We continued growing until we reached nearly 11,000 registered citizens. This population made us the 4th largest city in the state of Arkansas at that time. Some historians believe the population even reached almost 19,000 people before we started our decline. Today's population is approximately 1,900.

People always wonder why the population decreased so much and so quickly. To understand that, you have to understand why the population increased to begin with. Simply put, it was because of doctors. Prior to the turn of the century doctors helped their patients as much as they could and when they couldn't help them any further, they referred them to health spas. There were many health spas in America in those days, and Eureka Springs was a very popular one.

It's important to mention at this time that though some people came to the spas for pleasure, many, if not most, came for serious healing. They weren't here for a vacation but to get better and hopefully live longer and better lives. Thank God for the ones who  came just to visit, because after the turn of the century doctors had many new medicines, operations, equipment and better facilities, and were better able to care for the sick and ailing than the health spas could. Consequently, people started leaving the spas and going to the cities where the hospitals and doctors were. Ironically, the same ones that helped us to grow also caused the decline...doctors.

Now, don't misunderstand, we're very thankful for the doctors, and, in fact, we're glad there's only 1,900 folks living here now instead of 19,000. But, remember those visitors I mentioned earlier that came "just for the fun of it"? Well, they kept coming, and many others too. Since the turn of the century, Eureka Springs has been a town supported strictly by tourism.

From the early 1900's until about 1966, Eureka Springs survived on a lean number of visitors each year, but enough to keep a few restaurants, motels and gift shops in business. Then, in 1966, the Christ of the Ozarks Statue was completed by the Elna M. Smith Foundation, and a new group of visitors began to come. In 1968 the Smith Foundation opened "The Great Passion Play" and the town began a growth cycle that lasted for nearly 25 years. In the mid 1970's the first country music and comedy show, The Pine Mountain Jamboree, opened its doors followed by The Ozark Mountain Hoe-Down Theater. Thorncrown Chapel opened in 1981 and when the Eureka Springs and North Arkansas Railroad began operating, the city had a new Trolley System. Soon tour homes and Bed & Breakfast Inns sprang up all over town, downtown businesses got new face lifts, and old vacant buildings were restored and reopened housing many great arts, craft and gift shops, as well as many fine restaurants.

Today, Eureka Springs looks better than it ever has in history. We are a city of faith, hope and love. One of our nicknames is: "Eureka Springs...where the misfits fit!" It's true. I'm sure that if Robert Ripley were alive and visited us today, he would find even more unusual things to write about. However, since he isn't, we invite you to come and see for yourself. Who knows, you might even write a book about us someday!

Ripley's Believe It or Not list for Eureka Springs:

#1. Eureka Springs has over 230 streets, and "Believe It or Not" none of those streets cross each other at right angles. So then, there are no "cross streets."

#2. The Saint Elizabeth's Catholic Church is a church that you enter through the bell tower...Believe It or Not.

#3. There are some houses and commercial buildings that have more than one street name and address to the same building because of the way they are built on the hillsides...Believe It or Not.

#4 The Basin Park Hotel has 7 floors of rooms and they are all considered "ground floors"...Believe It or Not.

Nicknames of Eureka Springs:

#1 America's Victorian Village
#2 Little Switzerland of America
#3 The Wedding Capital of the State
#4 The Stairstep Town
#5 Eureka Springs...where the misfits fit!

Contact us at:

Joe Gunnels Tours and Guide Service
PO Box 246
Eureka Springs, AR 72632-0246